Travel Notes - Xel-Ha : Mexico

www.xel-ha.com

Visit Rating - *****

Why Xelha?

Xel-ha's biggest selling point is its natural setting despite it being a theme water park of sorts.There is something for everyone of all ages.Even infants as young as 1 year will enjoy this tranquil natural water paradise.There is too much to do and frankly even a day will seem short.Legend has it that Xel-ha was created by the Mayans in tandem with nature and they named it 'Xel-ha" meaning 'Source of the water'.Xel-ha is a marvellous collection of cenotes,underground caves,coves,lagoons and beaches.If you are in Yucatan visiting Merida,Cancun or the Playa do not miss it.
Getting there

By air: Nearest airport - Cozumel and then take a ferry across to Playa Del Carmen.Ferry prices are 180 pesos one way (2008 prices).From the pier walk two blocks to the bus station and there are buses leaving for Xel-ha at 9:20 am and 10:30 am (2008 timings).It costs about 40 pesos pp each way.
By Road:From Cancun downtown bus station take the bus going towards Tulum.Xel-ha is on the way, about 13 miles before Tulum.If you are going by car take the Mexico 307 highway south.Alternatively,if you want to save yourselves the trouble, you can book all-inclusive tours for about 110 USD (2008 prices from Cancun).They will pick you up from your hotel and back from Xel-ha.Considering that you have to pay 75 USD for the all-inclusive Xel-ha ticket,the extra 30 dollars might not seem too much.
Facilities

Get an all inclusive ticket.Its worth it.You spend 80 % of your time in or under water.Which means you need towels and lockers to keep your stuff and all that activity can get you hungry than what is normal.The all inclusive ticket (75 USD and 67 USD if booked on the internet) will get you unlimited food and drink in any of the four wonderful restaurants,unlimited towels,a locker to keep your stuff etc.The snorkelling equipment is included as well but there is a 20 USD or 200 pesos deposit which is returned when you give back the equipment.Plus they let you keep the snorkel for free as a souvenir!There are enough restrooms scattered around Xel-ha so attending a natures call is no big deal.The only one that irked me a bit was the environment friendly toilet towards the beginning of the river.Guess I just couldn't use it very well.
More facilities

The place is very well-organised and worth every penny of the money spent.There are road trains, if you dont want to walk around,cycles, if you dont want to take the road train and showers along the way, if you feel like taking a quick bath to ward off the humidity.There are life jacket posts scattered around Xel-ha and before you take the plunge be sure to put one of them on.Some places are a little deep and you will thank yourself for putting the life jacket on.Little shops sell water proof 35 mms in case you want to take a picture of the coloful fishes but for most part the water is very clear and your regular cameras will do a good job.Sunscreens are a must.Its the tropics and its hot and humid.Xel-ha doesnt allow regular suncreens for the fear of chemicals killing the marine-life.Instead,they have organic nature friendly sunscreens costing 100 pesos.There is a massage center too and plenty of hammocks if you want to lay your tired body after a long day.
What to do

Snorkelling for sure.That will take most part of your day.If you are not used to snorkelling then you will need about a hour or so to get adjusted to breathing through the pipe.And then you have to swim around to catch a glimpse of the best fishes.I saw a lot of them, most of them very colorful.So you can allocate a good 3-4 hours for this activity.Its a good idea to start with snorkelling.Then there is swimming with the dolphins (125 USD extra),down-the -river-swim,the cenotes,underground Mayan caves,the cliff of courage,crossing the river using a very shaky wooden bridge (its fun) and the rope jump.This will take another 4-5 hours if you dont rush through it.In between all these activities you have to eat and drink which usually tends to be heavy on the stomach beacuse there is a lot to eat.You might end up wanting to laze in one of the hammocks on the beach or take a massage.You see what I mean.A day is not enough !!
Dolphin Swim

Expensive but fun !!The dolphins indulge in all sort of tricks and activities and its an experience of a lifetime to interact with them.There is a separate area close to the entrance of Xel-ha where this activity takes place.If you cant afford it, you can just hang around and enjoy the show.An occasional iguana or two will keep you company.Remember to keep your digital camera in the burst mode.
The River Swim

From the entrance of Xel-ha one has to walk a considerable distance to get to the beginning of the river.Thats where you will find the inflatables-both single and double seaters.The walk is amid lush jungle growth but can get a tad tiresome in the hot sun.You can take the road train if you dont want to walk or take the bicycle.The mouth of the river i.e. the beginning, is shaped like a tunnel thanks to the mangrove growth.The hard part is navigating through the mangrove tunnel.The water pushes you along the tunnel but once you are out of it you are pretty much on your own.The water is more or less calm and you have to paddle hard using your hands to go down the river.But a good experience nevertheless.
The Cliff of Courage

It really is!!From the river below its looks easy but when you get ready to dive from the naturally elevated 20 ft high river bank you need a lot more than courage.The freefall is pretty exhilarating but you have to pay for the exhilaration with some pain as your body hits the wall of water below.Make sure you jump into the marked area only.
The Carribean Riviera

To cross the river you have to use a floating wooden bridge.At times it floats violently and caution is recommended while crossing it.The fishes around the floating bridge are quite huge and if you want to take a closer look its a good idea to snorkel in this area.Once you cross the bridge you step into a slice of rocky beach,quite beautiful,overlooking the Carribean sea.Part of the legendary Riviera Maya, this is!!
Cenotes and Caves

A short walk from the rocky beach will bring you to the underground caves.Follow the signs and you wont be lost.Again you will have to don the life jacket to get into the underground caves.There are Xel-ha photographers waiting to take your picture as you get into the caves.As soon as you make your way out of the caves you will be greeted by the cenotes.There are a couple of them around and they are a treat to see.If you are lucky you will see a big black bird which swims under water looking for fish.I was.
Tips

* Dont try to combine Tulum with Xel-ha.You wont have enough time to enjoy both.
* If you still want to squeeze in Tulum you can strike a deal with the cabbies outside Xel-ha and they will take you to Tulum and back.You will have to do some hard negotiation with them.
* Dont let the locker key hang loose around your neck.In all probablility, you will lose it at the Cliff of courage dive.Its 55 pesos for a replacement plus you have to shift out all your stuff from the old locker into a new one.
* Dont forget the Sunscreen.
* Dont forget to carry money in a water proof bag if you plan to give and take the snorkel gear many times over.200 pesos is the deposit.